By Daniel Rogers
Guests arrive at Alaskan Remote Adventures in style, touching down at the lodge aboard a classic DHC-2 Beaver.
Remote Alaska has a certain allure to fishermen worldwide that’s hard to put into words. It’s more than simply a place to catch trophy fish, avoid the crowds, and bring home some salmon for friends and family. Thousands of fly-fishermen, sightseers, and guides (like me!) return to this magical place year after year for the feeling of belonging, of connectedness with nature in untouched landscapes; an emotion that’s increasingly difficult to experience in the busy world we inhabit. Fly-out, overnight raft trips in Bristol Bay are the best way many have found to combine this feeling with the joy of fly-fishing.
Alaska is huge! When and where should I go?
There are a whole lot of rivers and options when it comes to fishing Alaska, each offering unique species, fishing techniques, and landscapes. When planning an Alaska float trip, whether it be self-guided or through an outfitter, the main things I’d lookout for are time of year, the species you’re after, and the style of fly-fishing you prefer. When dealing with salmon in most Bristol Bay watersheds, the “prime time” for fishing tends to follow this schedule:
June & July: King salmon (Chinook), Sockeye salmon, and Chum salmon
August & September: Silver salmon (Coho), Dolly Varden, Arctic Char, and Rainbow trout
Times and species vary from river to river, so phone a friend or do your homework! Mosquitos are an unavoidable subject, and while you’re not likely to escape them completely, their numbers start to decline in late July. I wish I could tell you that one month is drier or sunnier than the next, but part of the fun of Alaska is you never really know ‘til your boots are in the water. Even if you’re hiring a private float plane and embarking on a self-guided expedition, Tim Cammisa, Alaskan outfitters, and I are happy to help point you in the right direction.
Exploring Bristol Bay: A Fly Angler’s Paradise in the Heart of Alaska
How do I get there?
To get a feel for how the logistics typically go for these trips, I’ll use one of my favorites as an example, the Koktuli River. Beginning just north of Lake Iliamna, the Koktuli flows 60 odd miles NW before joining the Mulchatna River. Like many rivers in Bristol Bay, a wheel-plane flight is needed from Anchorage to Iliamna where you’ll board your float plane. There are a handful of ways to put together an expedition here:
These anglers are heading off from their starting spot in the Koktuli River headwaters, the very definition of an Alaskan adventure!
If you plan on bringing boats and everything else yourself, you can simply hire one of the great DHC-Beaver floatplane pilots at Rainbow River Aviation to fly you out and pick you up.
If you’d like to rent gear and/or hire a guide for a week-long trip, Fish & Float Alaska has you covered.
Float trip and lodge combo? Stay at a remote lodge that offers jet boat fishing. Alaskan Remote Adventures, where I guide on the Mulchatna River, has your back. This is my favorite - and blatantly biased - option.
Thinking about joining a group of like-minded fly fishers for a week in Alaska with full lodging and a chef? Look no further than Tim Cammisa’s group trip this summer. Learn more: HERE
Whichever option you pick, the first day will look something like this:
Wake-up in Anchorage and have some breakfast.
Drive or Uber to Merrill Field Airport or Anchorage International for a morning flight to Iliamna.
Get shuttled over to your float plane, then load up!
Land on a smaller lake unofficially named “Koktuli Pond.” Offload your gear in knee-deep water, wave your pilot goodbye, and you (and your guide/s if you got them!) will take trips game-carting all the boats and supplies across the tundra to the river bank of the Koktuli headwaters.
Inflate the boats and set sail!
Wild Alaskan Showdown: When Bears Battle, Anglers Watch in Awe
On The River
From here on out, you’ll be rafting, fishing, and camping along a small, crystal clear river. The upper Koktuli is a gravel-lined creek amidst 50 open miles of rolling, vast tundra. By day two, you’ll find yourself surrounded in a thick spruce forest with animal life and leaping grayling. Moose, caribou, wolves, eagles, ospreys, and brown bears are abundant and call this river home.
Guides always have your back when it comes to the bears, and for those self-guided, bears in the summer months aren’t too hungry. Even better for us, they’re quite afraid of humans in any regions they have hunting seasons. Bear spray is always smart to have along. I’ve had a number of brown bears follow the scent trail of fire-cooked meat into camp on the Koktuli, and a friendly “Hey bear! Kindly f*** off please, this dinner isn’t yours” always seems to do the trick. Just pretend you’re talking to a crazy ex - have confidence, stand your ground, and if they won’t respect your boundaries, pepper spray will change their mind.
Fish & Flies
You made it to the part where I actually talk about fish! The fish of the Koktuli are highly season dependent; everything but the Arctic grayling revolves around the lifecycle of salmon.
In late June and early July, the river boasts trophy Arctic grayling that can be picked up by everything! This includes dry flies like big bushy #10 Stimulators (that mimic absolutely nothing natural flying around) and more natural #16 Adams. Don’t forget egg patterns and streamers, they are both hard to resist. Legend has it Koktuli grayling turned their nose up at Tim Cammisa’s sophisticated “Euro nymphs” because the flies look too much like a real bug for their liking!
Using soft beads in Alaska is a highly effective technique, even with a fly rod. Aside from salmon, rainbow trout and Dolly Varden also fall victim to this setup.
By mid-July, salmon are making their way up the river. King and chum salmon are targeted with swung or stripped Dolly Llama streamers and egg sucking leeches. Be sure to carry a sink tip if the fish are in deeper water. Kings can often be persuaded with beads, whether high-sticked or carefully drifted under an indicator—an effective approach when they’re keyed in on eggs. There is a great chance that soft beads, when rigged correctly, can provide you with an aggravatingly effective setup, especially when targeting King salmon. See the diagram to learn how to setup this simple and effective rig.
Sockeye are not fond of biting and can be difficult to catch. They can easily be “flossed,” this is sometimes entertaining and does provide for a great fight, picture, and meal, but is about as sporty as shooting carp with a 10-gauge. The method involves drifting a long leader with a weight so that the fishing line naturally flows into the salmon’s mouth. Since salmon often keep their mouths slightly open while swimming upstream, the line slides through, and when the angler sets the hook, it usually catches in the corner of the fish’s mouth.
This fresh silver salmon was taken while fly fishing with a streamer. The preferred rod in Alaska for most salmon is a 9’ 8-weight.
Keep in mind that sockeye WILL occasionally bite - whether this is a defensive strike, predator eradication tactic for protecting their eggs, or a true attempt to eat is up for debate. The previous sentence is for legal purposes only (note sarcasm!). Tim and I made a bet last year, and he unfortunately won by consistently convincing the sockeye to bite his fly.
Silvers hit the mouth of the Koktuli around the first week of August, and by mid August they’ll be just about everywhere. Silvers are the least picky of the salmon in the Koktuli; my favorite streamer colors are pink, orange, or blue. Go with a Zonker or marabou streamer, but on a good day, the fish will bite damn near anything that moves. Later into August ,they get more aggressive and can be easily caught on top water with Poly Wogs like the Gurgler. It’s not uncommon to catch 50 silvers a day on the fly in the Koktuli and Mulchatna Rivers.
Leopard Rainbow trout, Dolly Varden, and char are gorgeous fish targeted all season, though things really start to pick up in late July and August. They closely follow spawning sockeye and chum, their sole focus is on stray eggs and flesh. As such, the best way to target them is finding a long stretch of bank with salmon lined up spawning, and drifting egg patterns, flesh flies, or a combination of the two. Stay awake, the strikes can be quick and aggressive!
Gear Needed for a Float Trip
Gear is truly trip-dependent, based on the level of comfort you require or weight that can be packed. Many outfitters will provide you with everything but a personal sleeping bag, so here’s the gist of what will either be included or you’ll be expected to bring for yourself:
Setting Up Camp with Uninvited Guests: Sharing Alaska’s Wild Backcountry with the Locals
Rods: 6- & 8-weights have you just about covered for trout and salmon. If you’re fishing a river that commonly lands 25 pound (or larger!) King salmon, throw a 10-weight in for good measure. Bring a floating line for trout, a sink-tip and floating line for the salmon.
Camping Gear: Pack windproof and rainproof tents, pads, and dry bags. Cots are amazing because often the camping spots are baseball-sized river rock, plus throw in an inflatable or packable pillow. Pack everything else you’d bring on a normal camping trip, such a cooking supplies and toiletries.
Clothing: Effective rain gear is essential. You’re not going to shower, and you’re probably not going to change unless you get wet. It’s always important to have backup base layers, but it doesn’t matter how many backups you have if your rain jacket or waders leak. For clothing, choose quick-dry pants & shirts, plus a mid-layer of fleece or down for insulation. A neck gaiter or buff is great for wind and bug protection, plus add lightweight boots for comfort in camp.
Survival Gear: Bear spray and/or gun if you prefer. If you bring your own gun self-guided, please only bring a 10 mm, 44 mag, 12 gauge with slugs & buckshot, or similar calibers. Don’t shoot unless you’ve already attempted bear spray or spraying isn’t an option. Bear spray deters, once you take your first real shot, you’re committed. Brown bears are known for their thick skull, don’t let yours be thicker.
Emergency Gear: Redundancy of fire starting materials is important. I keep a lighter and matchbook in my waders at all times, and it’s saved my life multiple times in Alaska. No one wants to build a bow-drill with damp spruce in the rain. Bring a quality PFD for the raft, plus a backup paddle.
Navigation: Some sort of satellite communication device is necessary if self-guided, otherwise guides will have them. A compass can be a lifesaver if technology fails, so also throw in extra batteries or a power bank.
First Aid: Add a first aid kit to your packing, some bug repellant, sunscreen, and lip balm. These, along with paracord & carabiners, will complete your packing.
Float Trip vERSUS Lodge (Or Both?!?)
Now comes the fun part: Which type of trip is best for you? The key in this is taking time to determine the type of Alaska experience you’re after. Choosing between a float trip and a lodge stay in Alaska comes down to your fishing style, adventure level, and comfort preferences—here are some thoughts to help to decide which experience is right for you.
Float Trip:
Pros: Complete immersion in nature, access to remote areas not even accessible by jet boat, and far more wildlife to see. A truly badass rugged experience!
Cons: Requires more preparation, physical effort, and less “comfort”. You aren’t likely to catch as many fish as you would with access to a motorized boat - once you float over a good hole it’s hard to go back and target it again.
Lodge Stay:
Pros: Comfortable accommodations, guided fishing, boats quickly take you to the best spots on multiple rivers, meals will be fancier, and you can dress down and relax at the end of every day.
Cons: Less adventurous, typically a little more expensive, less bragging rights when you get back home about how rugged you were all alone in the Alaska Bush.
Combining Both:
Rafting your way to a lodge can combine the best of both worlds. After 3 or 4 days camping on the river, even the most rustic of lodges and a hot shower is mind-blowing. This is my preferred style of trip as the rafting is always an unforgettable experience, but finishing the week at a lodge with jet boats to access the best possible fishing perfectly wraps up the whole experience.
When you’re ready to set up your perfect Alaskan experience, please reach out and I’ll be happy to get you pointed in the right direction. The untouched waters, incredible wildlife, and pure solitude of remote Alaska make for a fly fishing adventure you’ll never forget. Don’t wait too long—these pristine destinations are calling, and the best spots fill up fast!
Alaska is a place to dream dreams and forget you ever had any; the farther in you get, the farther out you get - Hamling Garland
About Daniel Rogers
Daniel Rogers is a guide and manager at Alaskan Remote Adventures, here seen with a beautiful King salmon.
This coming season will be my fourth year as guide and assistant manager at Alaskan Remote Adventures on the Mulchatna River. We offer full week lodge stays and float/lodge combos, with multiple river options including floating the Koktuli River down to the lodge on the Mulchatna River. We have a small, absolutely amazing team at ARA I’m lucky to call family. I also have the privilege of guiding as needed for Fish & Float Alaska, who offer a huge repertoire of river options.
I grew up in Eugene, Oregon where I learned to fly-fish on the Mckenzie river and worked at a fly-shop in highschool. After finishing college in Bend, Oregon, I decided I wasn’t ready to join the rat race and be an engineer in a cubicle (what’s wrong with my lazy generation, I know). A great college buddy and our Head Guide, Easton, asked if I’d come up and work with him, and I’ve been guiding the fishing and hunting seasons in Alaska ever since. In the off-season, I travel too much, have far too much fun, and fly planes in Montana. Follow my adventures on Instagram: @danielrogers620