If you fish in waterways known for caddisflies, here's a pattern that belongs in your fly box! This caddis is one that I fish to imitate the Grannom Caddis (also known in areas as the Mother's Day Caddis). This is a "new and improved" version of a previous video, and I'm sure you'll enjoy this one.

In this fly tying video, I describe the techniques required to tie the CDC Caddis Pupa, a highly effective fly for trout in streams.  This pattern can be varied, and I recommend changing the color of the body depending on your local caddis patterns.

In this tutorial, I showcase a pattern meant to imitate a caddis as it is drifting in the stream while in its case, Aaron Jasper's Iced Cased Caddis.  Typically, the case is found attached to a rock or streambed, yet trout will take this pattern as it drifts, possibly due to the green caddis thorax showing as it appears to "emerge" from the case.  Vary this pattern by substituting other materials for the case and thorax, though I prefer a tungsten bead to help the fly stay down, while the color black represents a caddis head.

During this tutorial, we discuss the notion of "hot spots" on flies, and possible materials to use.  Next, the Walt's Worm (also known as the Crane Fly Larva), created by Walt Young, is tied, while referencing other materials used, including tungsten beads from Rip Lips Fishing.

During this demonstration, I share tips and techniques to tie a favorite fly of many, the soft hackle hare's ear.  Using a dubbing loop to create a "buggier" body is a key to this fly, thus I encourage you to try variations of your own and share their recipes on this page with others.

In this brief fly tying video, I showcase a durable and effective pattern for trout, the caddis larva.  Tied as a bead head (though I show one sans bead @ the end), this pattern will get down to the fish quickly, while the picked-out dubbing does a great job representing the gills and legs of the natural insect.  Be sure to tie this pattern in colors that match the larva in waters you fish, and don't be afraid to try a few with a hot spot.

For this tutorial, a pattern the pattern I chose to tie was the Bead Head Crystal Soft Hackle.  This is an intermediate pattern, with the "crystal" section of its name deriving from the type of synthetic material used in the body.  Feel free to substitute other colors, which do not have to be of the "crystal" variety.

For this fly tying tutorial, I chose a pattern that represents a caddis pupa and emerger, John Anderson's Bird of Prey Caddis.  This fly consists of just a few simple materials, but as you'll see, all of them are considered some of the best to use in fly tying.  I do vary this pattern slightly from the original, but kept the most critical components to ensure its effectiveness.  I recommend this pattern for intermediate fly tyers, though those at an "upper beginner" level will be able to complete this fly with a little practice.  

In this fly tying tutorial, I showcase the stage prior to a caddisfly becoming an adult, the pupal stage.  This fly, TC's Caddis Pupa, has various materials representing the major characteristics of a caddis pupa, and I encourage you to try others to fool trout and grayling in your area.  I also feature a special method of utilizing cdc as legs, which is by incorporating the use of a dubbing loop (though I recommend this method for more intermediate tyers).  

This fly tying tutorial features George Daniel's Czech Catnip, a fly commonly used as the "anchor" for those familiar with Czech Nymphing.  The anchor fly is the heaviest fly placed on the setup, and this one works great for it bc of both its weight and ability to attract fish.  This is a no-nonsense fly, plus relatively simple to tie, and I encourage you to add some of these to your fly box.

Being that the main material (Micro Polar Chenille) comes in a variety of colors, this pattern can be varied quite easily.  I made a slight variation to the original pattern by substituting UV Chartreuse Polar Chenille in place of the original Olive, and I believe this change helps to make the fly more of an attractor-type in waters especially for trout, steelhead, salmon, and grayling.  Tied with this change is a great way to represent the Grannom Caddisfly.

In this fly tying tutorial, I show a modified version of Ian Colin James' "Ian's Brass Ass."  This is a featured fly on the Orvis website, and though originally tied for steelhead in the Great Lakes Region, this pattern has now become a popular one for Czech-nymph tactics, too.  Being that there is a lot of weight to this fly helps it both get to the bottom quickly, and stay there longer.  The fly also has a Copper John feel to it, undoubtedly due to the weight.  I have varied it slightly, as mentioned in the video, and I encourage you to try your own variations, while maintaining the defining characteristics.  This fly has caught steelhead, salmon, and all varieties of trout and grayling; open a spot in your box for Ian's Brass Ass, especially when imitating caddis in colder water.

In this "Two Minute Fly Tying" video, I share the modern version of the Utah Killer Bug that I fish. This pattern is incredibly simple to tie, and I give a few tips that may help you out. Thanks to my friend, Tom Glass, for sharing this one with me. Also, shout-outs to Frank Sawyer and the Tenkara Guides! ;-)

In this fly tying tutorial, I wanted to share a fly given to me by my buddy Tom, the Utah Killer Bug.  This fly is a modified and easier version of Frank Sawyer's Killer Bug.  The Utah Killer Bug can represent a myriad of insects depending on how you tie it.  From the crane fly to caddis larva, this pattern tied in a nondescript color seems to simply look like a bug (especially when it's wet!).  There are a couple variations shown at the end, plus you can always make this pattern into a soft hackle, which can then touch on the caddis spectrum.  The Utah Killer Bug, created by the Tenkara Guides, is a keeper in my box, and belongs in yours, too.  Tom, thanks for sharing this pattern!

In this fly tying tutorial, I share a version of the venerable "Partridge and Orange," one of my favorite soft hackle flies. This is a traditional pattern that continues to have a place in many of our fly boxes, and for good reason.  Prior to this video, I participated in a wet fly swap, and decided on this pattern to share.  This fly can represent various insects, most notably caddis and sulphur flies.  I prefer to fish the fly in the surface film, though I go over other techniques in the video.  

During this demonstration, I vary the Partridge & Orange soft hackle a tad by substituting the partridge feather with one found on the back (versus the neck).  This feather is a darker one, which I believe contrasts well with the bright orange body.  The Partridge & Orange soft hackle is effective as an October caddis, sulphur nymph/emerger, and steelhead attractor.

In this fly tying tutorial, I demonstrate various techniques and methods to tie an Olive Scud Nymph.  Scuds are a prolific insect found in spring creeks, thus having various colors and sizes of these in your box will pay dividends towards your fishing.   This pattern can also be used to represent caddisflies, thus use it with confidence!  Aside from showing the materials and methods for this scud, I also demonstrate how to burn monofilament eyes if you're going for that realistic look with this fly. 

In the video, I referenced an online article by Dave Karczynski, in which he interviewed Mat Wagner to discuss scuds.  The article can be found at the following link: http://midcurrent.com/flies/all-thing...

The Holy Grail, which I first came across on the Orvis website, is a no-nonsense pattern that can be utilized for both caddis and mayfly nymphs.  It can easily be fished in a "dry-dropper" situation, and colors I recommend aside from this olive pattern include tan, brown, and black.  

Being that the Hare's Ear is such a classic and venerable pattern, it's only fitting that applying new styles to it occur more often than not.  The Czech-style of nymphing has overtaken many areas of fly flshing, and it's easy to convert the Hare's Ear to that type of a pattern, as shown in the fly tying tutorial.

There are many options that you have with this pattern, and I explore a few during the video.  I do want to stress that this is a larger pattern (sizes 8-12) and I fish it in fast water, thus you'll notice that I tie this pattern in the "guide style" with few of those options added on.

During this fly tying tutorial, a very simple and effective fly is discussed, the Mercury Cased Caddis.  This fly, a variation of Pat Dorsey's original, is one that does an excellent job of imitating caddisflies in their cases, and is extremely simple to tie.  This is definitely a pattern that falls into the "Guide Fly" category due to these reasons, and one to have in your box if you fish waters with caddis during April through June.

When fishing spring creeks (and other streams with water cress), don't forget about the Cress Bug!  This fly is effective in many situations, and I primarily recommend fishing it in the riffles as part of a nymph setup.  When tying the Cress Bug, be sure to focus on the key characteristics, as mentioned in the video.  This one can also effectively imitate caddisflies, which makes it a dual-threat!  Have fun with this one, and definitely get it into your box!

In this video, Andrew Dang is the guest tier sharing a great pattern, the Diamond Caddis.  Andrew shows us just how simple this pattern is to tie, and it does an excellent job of representing the Grannom caddis.  Andrew is one of the young individuals in our sport that we must continue to support, and I greatly appreciate him taking the time to film this fly for all of us.